Sar Pass Trek - My first Himalayan encounter

“Be brave. Take risks. Nothing can substitute experience.” ~ Paulo Coelho

Snow capped peaks, people playing, loving and living with snow, posing calm with fully covered warm clothes, melting glaciers, snowing, hard striving climber on a rock to reach a peak etc etc, we get to see all these in photographs, cinemas, TV news and else where in the virtual world. But how does it feel to be there in person, strive all day, cross numerous hurdles, live the moments and enjoy all those in real?

Pretty long article, jump to the 7th para here to skip my personal prologue rantings. 

Photo credits : Me, Fellow trekkers Ashutosh Patel, Manoj patel,Sagar Patil, Sree Harsha, Amruth Narayana, Pawan Nayak, Navneeth, Krishnamurthy and more

Sometime in 2009, third year of engineering course, Dhanasekar, the craziest fellow friend was telling to our crazy group that, "There is an organisation called Youth Hostel Association which conducts treks to everest base camp for damn cheap cost, and we are going for it after we write our final year exams". I had never climbed anything high in life till then other than climbing steps on buildings.

That cheap cost he told too seemed to be costly as I was still a student. Then we all just forgot everything as usual and got busy with our lives. Then happened introduction to CTC and small treks here and there. Suddenly one morning,  saw his photo tagged in a newspaper for Youth Hostel Association of India (YHAI) karnataka branch's one week long coorg trek program and later he went for the Goa sailing expedition too.The description of which kindled my travel wishes more and I kept checking for YHAI site for its announcement last year (2013), but it never happened. Accidentally came across the 5 days Munnar trekking program,which I then participated in, in October 2013, where many were talking about the iconic SAR PASS trek that happens for 10 days.

The possibilities of me going seemed remote because of myraid of reasons. No long leaves, not so fit, have to travel till other end of country, Don't know hindi and above all it was general fear about the mighty himalayas.December came and registrations for SAR Pass started and Call from Dhanasekar again to register for the first batch starting on May 1. With all the above stated fear and the fact of half money being returned if cancelled, I just went on registering.

Then the UAE vacation in January with Family taxed on leaves and finances. Bloody Dhanasekar broke his collar bone and cancelled his registration for the trek. Hopes about the trek were still dangling.

With air travel being optimized for leaves, we had to book flight tickets ahead which I was still thinking to book or not. Almost everyone who registered booked tickets in Jan- Feb and I was reluctant till March end. Then booked tickets in refundable fare to Delhi and sought permission for long leaves, my manager was kind enough to let me go.

One month left and not so happy fitness level, finally decided to do with the trek. Did jog for a week's time in morning, the maximum workout I did for the trek. Then the day came with lot of eleventh hour purchases in Decathlon, started with the trip.

Reached Delhi by Air from Bangalore on April 30th and bus to Kullu from there over night reporting on May 1st to the base camp. The Himachal Roadways volvo from ISBT Delhi was too good , I did not expect such a cozy travel in hilly routes. The route was totally alongside the majestic Beas river which flows across Himachal. A 12 hours journey to Bhuntar, a place 10kms before Kullu, from where a 30 kms diversion and a 2hrs travel in local bus to Kasol.

Himachal :

The state of Himachal Pradesh is a purely tourist dependent state belssed by nature. Hilly roads and Remote towns that can get disconnected any moment in case of land slides.

They have some of the best and most skilled drivers in the world. Was really amazed by the way they handle the vehicles in the mountains. Huge rivers flow from altitudes help them generate a lot of Hydel power. The people are calm and speak Pahari language.

Gifted with a physique built for hiking with weights,they carry heavy things on back with smiling faces.

In fact, our tent materials from base camp to higher camps were carried by

locals that too young ladies. The luggage was around 40kgs charged Rs.15/kg.

They lead a happy and contended life without running behind money, gadget

or anything virtual.

Kasol :

Our base camp location, a village located in the valley and banks of the cold and loud Parvati river with foreigners roaming around for the charas grown there. It also had small market selling trekking goods at an opportunistic rocket high price.

Base camp:

All YHAI camps maintain a discipline and strict timings to keep up the regime as they handle masses. There were daily morning exercises , very decent and timely food , Acclimatization walk (~4km) on the second day, rappelling and Rock climbing training on the third day.

Areal view of Base camp shot from DJI Phantom

This was the only camp with proper sanitation, power facilities for light or minimal charging points. It was the most comfortable tented stay relative to other camps.

Temperature was less than 20degC and sometimes dropped below 10degC. Midnights were cold after the usual evening rain.

One layer of extra cloth was sufficient to keep warm. We started to higher camps from there on May 4th.

Further Life :

There were six higher camps and from every camp we started by 8.30am with packed lunch with an indispensable guide, only one who knew what trail to be taken on that day.Lunch was some where in between where we could find some plain or semi plain land to get seated.

Routes change every year because of land slides and floods. Was able to spot many land slide remains, rocks rolled down over the huge trees creating disaster.

We were told that we took some routes after almost 12 years.Very less of it was identifiable as trail else it was mostly walking towards the right direction across dense forests .

The paths were into deep forests crossing ridges with each valley giving a better visual than previous one. Those streams, and villagers moving around with herds at lower altitudes gave a very pleasant feel. The vegetation kept decreasing with altitude and there was nothing but only snow at the top.

Himalayan weather is highly unpredictable. Windy rain any time and hailstorms at higher altitudes.

We reached that particular day's destination camp between 2.30pm and 4.30pm. Luckily it rained everyday post our arrival to the camp.

We got a Welcome drink, Soup, Tea in hours gap and Dinner before sunset as there was no power in any higher camps. Streams were our only source of water for all

its usages. Good sleeping bags were provided at each camp for the night sleep.

Sun set was by 7.30pm. Much later in Nagaru, the highest camp.

Grahan:

Our first higher camp trek to ~8000ft . Steep at some places. Overall a manageable trek.

Nice camp setup, location and food. A toilet kind of setup was given for the nature calls. Even at that altitude we were lucky to find Black Scorpions in tents which gave an exciting sleep for that night ;-)

Padri:

Our second higher camp at about ~9500ft. Trek was a bit hard coz we descended most height that we climbed the previous day and ascend again.This destination had the best camp site I have ever been. 

Considerable amount of open grassland Surrounded by ice capped peaks with no visual obstruction and our tents located near a stream. There was quite a large open space to move around.

Min thatch:

The third higher camp at around 11000ft. The usual camping place called Ratapani was cancelled due to excessive snow.

Reaching there was the longest, 14kms treacherous path from 9.00am to 6.30 pm. Most tiring day of the trek. Steep at many places and some of the final ascents were almost 88 degrees on random rocks.

This trial was our first ice encounter. 30% on snow. I slipped twice into the not so fatal valleys without support stick which I did not bother to carry till then.

It was in this trial camera rolled down rocky slope for some 400 ft , hit and was stopped by a tree. Happy that I got it back in full shape but the shutter jam inside let me do nothing for the following days.

Nagaru :

Our fourth and highest camp at 12500ft. Thrilling route with steep and deadly ice  covered valleys. It was almost full on ice trek.

4-6 ft ice was digged out to make tent space. A semi igloo environment with ice walls. We faced hail storm with really spine chilling thunders followed by a calm snowfall.

It was just milky white snow every where around to play with. The sun set was by ~8pm.  We got drinking water by melting ice. Sky colors, cloud movements and surroundings were surreal to feed the eyes and cameras like anything.

Was wearing 5 layers of clothing with socks and gloves  and I was still shivering.

Sar pass:

The D-day trek to 13800 feet, started early morning before sunrise which was at 4.30 am!! Steep ice climbs and some plain walk over the glacier. Sherpas from Himalayan Mountaineering Institute were our guides. We crossed an avalanche that happend a day back.

Snow and only snow till the horizon all sides and that reddish sun rise over himalayan peaks. REAL FEAST!

At a point by 8am, there were no other high peaks around.

YES!WE WERE ON THE TOP! OVER THE HIMALYAN SHIVALIK RANGE!

It was pricking ice cold wind with very bright and sharp sun. A peculiar weather. Was able tofeel the thin oxygen and the weak atmosphere with frequent gasp. Exhausting snow walk cheered up by the Himachali song by guide ended at a really steep ascent and fully descending from there on.

Snow slide :

Now comes the Fun and most exciting part of the trek which I was a bit afraid of before. One of the best experiences of my life. It was a steep descend on snow that one can not manage to walk down.Mandatory slide on snow at a great speed without any effort. Though instructions were given for a safe slide, it was fun to topple, turn around slide in wierd postures :D :D

It was an ultimate Childish feel and amusement for 3-4kms split slide.We had covered a day's descend in hours by sliding directly to the camp site at Biskeri.

The fear of snow was fully gone and I was wantedly finding slopes to slide wherever possible. Happened to see the few glacier melting places too.

Biskeri :

The first lower camp called as little switzerland, was same as nagaru with full of ice due to extreme snowing. Our camp leader told that it was 4 ft ice after 1997 and they set tents with great difficulty as it was'nt anticipated.

Excessive playing in snow made me a little feverish.

Final descent :

With one more camp named Bhandak thatch, a vast and beautiful grassland and a colorful camp on it, I decided to skip it directly and descend further directly to base camp.

We were told that some amount of rappelling needed at a river cross but that was easy even without rappelling. I descended more than 4000ft in a day with one more trek mate and our camp leader came with us. Reaching Base camp again looked like a palace for the comfort it offered.

YHAI:

Overall an awesome organisation on various grounds with respect to the amount of work done behind to give a perfect trekking experience. We had an experienced and awesome camp leader with us all along who threw some light

on the YHAI operations.

Supply chain was to such extent that they transport food items to all camps dailly or on need basis and nothing stocked anywhere.While other tour operators give such experiences in multi fold cost, these people do it with no profit at all. Most of their employees are volunteers.

For the range of area and altitude we covered, it demands a lot local's interactions, forest permissions and a planned supply of materials to all camps which was perfectly done.

Team :

We were 50 faces in our SP1 group, most from Bangalore, Maharashtra , Gujarat and remaining from other states. All were highly co operative and moved at very decent pace all over the trek. Fun we had will ring for a long time in my mind. An awesome group to be a part of!

Gear:

Ascending involves lot of physical energy and stamina working on a different set of bones and muscles unlike descending.The knees get into great pressure and stepping down steep descends demand great concentration than any physical task.Previous trek descends taxed my toes and ankle too. The choice of right kind of shoe helped a lot this time.

Quechua Forclaz 500 . It looked huge but really lightweight , breathable ,water proof to the fullest extent even in small streams and snow. There is no way, the inner sides will get wet the untill water levels go above ankles. It gave unbeleivable grip on ice and steep forest trails.

My take :

YHAI has conducted this trek for past 21 years with an average of 1300 people per year. It counts upto less than 30k people and I am one of those luckiest souls that ever lived on earth to have this lifetime experience.

10 full days among infinitely tall pine trees, sun shaded forests, grasslands, sky bending landscapes, ice, massive, loud and swift flowing rivers. It was all nothing but nature at its best possible state.

Not to mention that there was a complete freedom from mobile networks or any other means digital/virtual things happening around. Time was mine all day.

It is said that every travel makes some irreversible influences impact to the self. Simply being away but with nature itself gives deep insights over life to realise and refresh the soul. Beyond this, interacting and observing people and surviving extreme environments leaves deep traces.

Every physical step you take cross those deep , fatal valleys and slippery steep forest ascents make all other common problems in life infinitesimally small or they don’t matter at all.

General notion is that terkking means physical fitness. True but according to me, it is also an equal mental task. Sometimes it is only a mental task.

In such long treks, moving continuously with your own load at the back, after a point of time you very well know you are exhausted and cannot do much physically. It is all about facing and conquering your own fear there after.

It is all then our mind that should push forward to get the goal and surprisingly, with the right spirit, it keeps moving us in spite of the pain faced. I was absolutely experiencing the same.

Finally getting on to the top, literally there are no words to explain the sense of happiness or achievment state the soul gets into. Might be it is the actual feel that "Getting high" is derived from.

" It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves." - Sir Edmund Hillary

Other Photos from my album go here

Videos :

Get a live feel with some of our great moments recorded by Amruth Narayana :



Breath taking Camp locations videographed by Manoj Patel :